I finally got some time off work and bought an 18V impact wrench (by Ryobi). I needed it to remove the winches off of the mast. There is no telling how long they have been on there. But I broke two tips removing three winches. That could give you an idea why I needed the impact wrench. That and I did find anti seize on the threads and they where still frozen in place. I think these winches have not been serviced in a while, a long while. I also found water in every winch. Good thing I decided to take them apart and do a full rebuild.
To rebuild a Barient 10 winch
Dissasembly
On the very top of the winch is a ring labeled Barient 10. You can see the top of the main shaft coming through the top of the ring. Around the main shaft just on top of the ring and holding it on is a snap ring. The snap ring runs around the the main shaft twice inside a groove. The easiest way I have found to remove the snap ring without damaging it too much is to use a very small common screwdriver and hook the little tab on the very end of the snap ring and pull it out just enough to clear the groove in the main shaft. Then pull the snap ring end up until is starts to unwind. As soon as it starts to unwind pull it up and around at the same time. This will unwind it instead of pulling it up which will streach the snap ring and make it unusable.
After the snap ring is off the drum can be lifted off. Watch the one main bearing between the main shaft and the drum, it can come out at this time and fall. Also watch the ring labeled Barient 10. Now that the snap ring is off it can and will fall off.
After the drum is off remove the ring labeled Barient 10 and stow it safely. Also remove the two pawls and springs and stow safely. Be carefull the springs are very small and on my winches the pawls where completly caked in grease hiding the spring which sits in a grove in the middle of the circular part of the pawl. It would be very easy to not even notice the spring falling out and quietly bouncing overboard. That is until you tried to re-assemble. If you notice the pawls are covered in grease that is a sign that there was too much grease put on last time. Grease can cause the pawl to become slow and maybe even stick. A stuck pawl can cause the winch to release load suddenly with no warning as the one remaining pawl fails. A very dangerous situation. So I suggest you watch the pawls as you disasemble and use the presence of grease to remind you to be easy with the grease anywhere it can end up on the pawls.
Now comes the fun part. You need to remove the base of the winch from the boat. I used the Ryobi 18V impact wrench to remove the 6 bolts from the mast. I put the parts into a ziplock bag labeled with an indelible pen. After cleaning the other winch parts I add them to the bag until time to rebuild the winch.
After the winch is free from the boat I suggest you take everything somewhere safe where small parts won’t go splash. It is almost impossible to find parts for a barient winch these days so be careful.
Next remove the main bearing usually from inside the drum, but sometimes it is on the base still. I use two paper towels to clean the bearing and set it asside.
Turn the base over and you will see the main shaft another ring and somewhere in the grease. Using the same unwinding technique remove the lower snap ring.
The main shaft is free to be removed now.
Now the ring can be removed and cleaned.
And then the two lower pawls and springs can be removed and cleaned.
Now using parafin lamp oil and a brush (I use an old tooth brush) wash and clean all parts. Then let them dry completely before re-assembly.
Assembly
Using winch grease lightly grease the inside of the base (where the main shaft will go). You want enough grease here because this will help keep water out of the base. But don’t use too much since there are two pawls on the bottom of the base. And you don’t want to get them covered with the excess grease.
Using oil only oil the pawls and sockets on the base. Assemble the springs into the groves. I hold the spring compressed with thumb and forefinger and insert the pawl into the base until my fingers get pushed out of the way by the base. The spring is now (ususally) in position.
Insert the main shaft into the base. Position the gear teath on the main shaft toward the top of the winch.
Now install the lower ring onto the base. It is seated properly if you can see the lower groove in the main shaft.
Next install the snap ring into the lower groove on the main shaft locking the lower ring and the lower pawls.
Next oil the upper pawls and the pawl sockets on the top of the drum. Notice the gear groves on the head of the main shaft. This is where the pawls will catch. Insert the springs into the pawls and insert the pawls with springs into the top of the drum. You want one pawl on top, one on the bottom. The top pawl should point (and fold) to the left, and the bottom one should point (and fold) to the right.
Now install the base back onto the boat.
Press grease into the bearings and make sure to grease the ends of the bearings. I usually get a medium sized goop of grease and spread it in one direction trying to not get any bubbles or empty spots. Then I rotate the bearings with my fingers to distribute the grease around the bearing. Then I goop on grease in the other direction and distribute the grease again. The goal is to have the bearing surfaces evenly coated with grease, but not too much. I wipe off a lot of grease with my fingers and scape it off my finger and back into the tub. Leaving a coating of grease all over the bearing surface. Now slide the bearing onto the base.
Now assemble the drum onto the base and main shaft being carefull not to push the upper pawls back out. I fold the pawls in slightly with my fingers and then the drum will just slide onto the base. Make sure to rotate the drum. It should only rotate in one direction, and the pawls should click and lock in the other direction.
After checking the winch works properly install the top ring with the label Barient 10. Then install the snap ring into the groove in the main shaft.
Check that it all works as expected.
Congratulations you just rebuilt your Barient 10 winch.
I am thinking of putting the fuel return valve manifold on the top left hand corner of the FilterBOSS mounting panel. That way it will be near the fuel tank selector valves, and easily accessed along with the filter change over valves as well as giving me enough room to clearly label each valve. This is working quite well so far. I am very pleased. More pictures will be posted as soon as I get something mounted and tubing installed so stay tuned.
I had to stop by my friends at the Garhauer booth. They are great people. Very knowledgeable and always willing to help get the right equipment. I don’t have bearings on my main traveler car. And when the main is pulling hard it can be impossible to adjust it. I am looking at the MT-UB-3 mainsheet traveler. Really sturdy, well built, and I like the line layout. I am thinking of adding the 30-2SP “boom vang” as the mainsheet. It has two tails. Pull one and it’s an 8 to one ratio, pull both and it’s a 4 to one ratio. COOL! However it’s only rated at 2000 lbs. I’ll have to check out the load my full main can excerpt on the mainsheet in 25 knots of wind (I normally reef at 15 knots). I am also thinking about one of the heavy duty E-Z Glide adjustable genoa car systems. Again I need to check the size of my current track as well as the load on the car from my 130% genoa with 30 knots of wind to pick which one. I hope you have enjoyed my comments about the boat show. As you can see, there is a lot of boat maintenance to come.
Yeay! Can charge while motoring.
