Entries Tagged as 'winch'

Barient winch maintenance training website

I found very little information on the web about barient winches.  So with the information I did find I started to rebuild my winches.  Now that I have accomplished rebuilding my barient winches I am creating a website to help you gain some experience before you start on your barient winches.  There are web resources, parts lists, tool requirements, steps, pictures, and a few movies.  Have a look and tell me if you would like anything else added. 

I have opened the Barient 10 winch class, and I’m working on the Barient 16 winch class. 

Have fun sailors!

www.svdoric.com/training

Barient 10 winch rebuild

 

I finally got some time off work and bought an 18V impact wrench (by Ryobi).  I needed it to remove the winches off of the mast.  There is no telling how long they have been on there.  But I broke two tips removing three winches.  That could give you an idea why I needed the impact wrench.  That and I did find anti seize on the threads and they where still frozen in place.  I think these winches have not been serviced in a while, a long while.  I also found water in every winch.  Good thing I decided to take them apart and do a full rebuild. 

To rebuild a Barient 10 winch

Dissasembly

On the very top of the winch is a ring labeled Barient 10.  You can see the top of the main shaft coming through the top of the ring.  Around the main shaft just on top of the ring and holding it on is a snap ring.  The snap ring runs around the the main shaft twice inside a groove.  The easiest way I have found to remove the snap ring without damaging it too much is to use a very small common screwdriver and hook the little tab on the very end of the snap ring and pull it out just enough to clear the groove in the main shaft.  Then pull the snap ring end up until is starts to unwind.  As soon as it starts to unwind pull it up and around at the same time.  This will unwind it instead of pulling it up which will streach the snap ring and make it unusable.

After the snap ring is off the drum can be lifted off.  Watch the one main bearing between the main shaft and the drum, it can come out at this time and fall.  Also watch the ring labeled Barient 10.  Now that the snap ring is off it can and will fall off. 

After the drum is off remove the ring labeled Barient 10 and stow it safely.  Also remove the two pawls and springs and stow safely.  Be carefull the springs are very small and on my winches the pawls where completly caked in grease hiding the spring which sits in a grove in the middle of the circular part of the pawl.  It would be very easy to not even notice the spring falling out and quietly bouncing overboard.  That is until you tried to re-assemble.  If you notice the pawls are covered in grease that is a sign that there was too much grease put on last time.  Grease can cause the pawl to become slow and maybe even stick.  A stuck pawl can cause the winch to release load suddenly with no warning as the one remaining pawl fails.  A very dangerous situation.  So I suggest you watch the pawls as you disasemble and use the presence of grease to remind you to be easy with the grease anywhere it can end up on the pawls.

Now comes the fun part.  You need to remove the base of the winch from the boat.  I used the Ryobi 18V impact wrench to remove the 6 bolts from the mast.  I put the parts into a ziplock bag labeled with an indelible pen.  After cleaning the other winch parts I add them to the bag until time to rebuild the winch.

After the winch is free from the boat I suggest you take everything somewhere safe where small parts won’t go splash.  It is almost impossible to find parts for a barient winch these days so be careful.

Next remove the main bearing usually from inside the drum, but sometimes it is on the base still.  I use two paper towels to clean the bearing and set it asside.

Turn the base over and you will see the main shaft another ring and somewhere in the grease.  Using the same unwinding technique remove the lower snap ring. 

The main shaft is free to be removed now.

Now the ring can be removed and cleaned.

And then the two lower pawls and springs can be removed and cleaned.

Now using parafin lamp oil and a brush (I use an old tooth brush) wash and clean all parts.  Then let them dry completely before re-assembly.

Assembly

Using winch grease lightly grease the inside of the base (where the main shaft will go).  You want enough grease here because this will help keep water out of the base.  But don’t use too much since there are two pawls on the bottom of the base.  And you don’t want to get them covered with the excess grease.

Using oil only oil the pawls and sockets on the base.  Assemble the springs into the groves.  I hold the spring compressed with thumb and forefinger and insert the pawl into the base until my fingers get pushed out of the way by the base.  The spring is now (ususally) in position. 

Insert the main shaft into the base.  Position the gear teath on the main shaft toward the top of the winch.

Now install the lower ring onto the base.  It is seated properly if you can see the lower groove in the main shaft.

Next install the snap ring into the lower groove on the main shaft locking the lower ring and the lower pawls.

Next oil the upper pawls and the pawl sockets on the top of the drum.  Notice the gear groves on the head of the main shaft.  This is where the pawls will catch.  Insert the springs into the pawls and insert the pawls with springs into the top of the drum.  You want one pawl on top, one on the bottom.  The top pawl should point (and fold) to the left, and the bottom one should point (and fold) to the right.

Now install the base back onto the boat.

Press grease into the bearings and make sure to grease the ends of the bearings.  I usually get a medium sized goop of grease and spread it in one direction trying to not get any bubbles or empty spots.  Then I rotate the bearings with my fingers to distribute the grease around the bearing.  Then I goop on grease in the other direction and distribute the grease again.  The goal is to have the bearing surfaces evenly coated with grease, but not too much.  I wipe off a lot of grease with my fingers and scape it off my finger and back into the tub.  Leaving a coating of grease all over the bearing surface.  Now slide the bearing onto the base.

Now assemble the drum onto the base and main shaft being carefull not to push the upper pawls back out.  I fold the pawls in slightly with my fingers and then the drum will just slide onto the base.  Make sure to rotate the drum.  It should only rotate in one direction, and the pawls should click and lock in the other direction.

After checking the winch works properly install the top ring with the label Barient 10.  Then install the snap ring into the groove in the main shaft.

Check that it all works as expected.

Congratulations you just rebuilt your Barient 10 winch.

Jib sheet winch rebuild

Barient Stainless 35 winch Barient Stainless 35 winch Barient Stainless 35 winch parts  

 

Several months ago I started my first annual maintenance on my jib sheet winches.  I got one apart and found rusted gears, and some pawls that where frozen.  My brother has a machinist friend that wanted to take on the challenge of trying to free the pawls without hurting any part.
Since this is a Barient winch it has not been in production for quite some time and I found there are no parts available for servicing these winches.  Bad news.  The good news is I got the part back yesterday and it is bronze.  So with proper preventative maintenance these winches will last forever.  I did find where the water was getting into the winch.  It is traveling down the main shaft.  So when I put the port winch back together I packed that area with grease.  I really doubt much water will get in there for a year.  And since you are supposed to perform annual maintenance on winches it should do nicely.
I was really afraid that I wouldn’t be able to get the port winch back together.  So I left the starboard winch on the boat for a reference.  And that was all I needed.  Once my brothers friend did his magic on the parts (not a scratch, and the parts look better than new!)  I arranged them on the galley table along with my tools, winch grease, winch oil, and lots of shop towels.  I removed the starboard winch and put it upside down on the galley table in the corner where I could see the gears inside.  Then I started looking for gears that looked like the ones on the assembled winch.  In about 6 hours I had packed the bearings, greased the shafts, put a light coat of winch grease all over every gear, and assembled the entire thing.  I then installed the winch without the top on and greased the gears while turning to make sure the grease got distributed to all the gears.  Then I greased the ring gear on the winch top and installed that.  Everything works great.  So I removed the  the port winch again and put it upside down on the galley table.  Then I removed the starboard winch and took it apart.  Two of the gears have some light rust on them.  So I will have the magic performed on them.  The rest look in great shape, just caked in grease.  I am removing the grease and cleaning all the bearings.  Then I’ll assemble the starboard winch with the port winch as a reference.  It was all much easier than I expected.
I am so happy that a project is moving again.  It has been too long since there was forward momentum on the boat.  I have been way to busy at work.  It seems they think they own me.  HA!  The wind and the sea own me.  And there is no arguing with those two.  I feel the pull daily and it eats at me that I can’t move the boat right now.  But with a little forward momentum comes great hope.  And I am hoping the engine problem will be solved soon.  Then I can go back to what I truly love.  I can go sailing.